Plastic Everywhere

Having lived in Argentina now for almost four years, one of the things that still strikes me is the amount of plastic rubbish that covers the landscape. Seeing people throw their rubbish onto the ground when it is no longer wanted is still hard for me witness. The plastic bags are not normally in this category however, and most are used in the home as rubbish bags to contain other trash.

Plastic bag bushes

The myriads of plastic bags across the landscape therefore seems to be inexplicable. The only thing that I can consider a reasonable explanation is that the dogs that roam the streets, and there are many dogs roaming the streets, tear up the bags looking for food and the wind blows them off. With a landscape covered in thornbushes, these bags end up impaled on a thorn or two and remain there until they finally start to fall apart.

Fields full of plastic bags

Although plastic bags were a great idea at first, their effect on the environment has long outweighed any cost or convenience and it is time to ban them from our lives. There are already some cities in Argentina that have banned their use, and many others around the world have done so for some time. There are many better alternatives that we need to use now. Let’s do it.

Russians and Boat Wrecks

Now that I have my bike, there are places to go that I have not yet been. This means jumping on the bike and picking a new place just to see what it is like. Today I headed out to find the old boat wrecks that lay somewhere along the beach north of Madryn.

The boats from a distance

The ride started off on the sand, but before long I was riding along a sandstone rock that covered the entire beach area. Some parts were covered in a green algie and were very slippery, other parts were bare and dry but filled with deep ruts that made riding really difficult and slow.

Riding over the rocky section

Continuing onward, the wrecks could be seen in the distance, and like all things that can be seen in the distance, they did not look too far away. They were however, and it took more than an hour of riding over some really rough rocks before I started to get near them.

Lots of bumps along the way

On the left hand side a cliff rose up beside me, with a strong wind whipping the sand and dirt into my eyes when I was not careful. Unfortunately my ride was against the wind, which made things just that much harder and slower. It did not deter me from the goal however, and after much effort I finally reached the boats in their final resting place along the beachfront.

Nearing the boats

The newest of all boats present was one that looked like a Russian whaling boat. At least that is what it looked like to me. A rope hung from a lowerable stairway which gave access to climb aboard, something that I would like to do with some friends later on.

The Russian boat

The size of this ship was amazing when I compared it to my bicycle, found in the middle of the photo below. Each ship was pretty big but this one seemed even bigger. Perhaps that was just because it was the one that I got closest to.

My bicycle is in the middle of the hull

After lots of riding against the wind it was a joy to turn around and head back along the roads. The wind provided so much assistance that there were times when I was overtaking the cars. With such a great push, it was easy to get back just before the sun set and darkness obscured the long unlit road back home.

Far from home

Old boat wreck along the way

Sunset on the way home

Watching Whales Play

One of the biggest reasons that the tourists come to Puerto Madryn in the winter is because our bay is the home to dozens of whales that come to give birth to their young. The whole process of finding a mate and then hanging about together until the calf is birthed causes the whales to stay close to the surface and do some crazy antics. This is where all of these photos of whale tails, whale’s noses and fins, and even whales jumping come from.

So with camera in hand, and winter fast disappearing, I headed over to the local pier early in the morning and was rewarded with the following fotos.

The main Madryn pier
The main pier from where most photos were taken.

Whale blowing air
Whale blowing air with nose out of water.

A whale’s tail
A whale’s tail sticks slightly out of the water.

Whale nose
A whale pokes its nose out of the water near the pier.

Whale side fin
The side fin of a whale doing flips underwater.

A whale seen from the beach
A whale near the end of the pier as seen from the beach.

Madryn Beach and City
The beach and city from where you can see the whales.

Home Again Gone Again

Well, after 3 days of non-stop travel on buses I make it back to my home in Puerto Madryn. The first day I end up sleeping almost right through from 2pm onward to the next day, although I did get up to eat a quick something during the night. Travelling was exhausting.

Long road
On the road again, heading north to Cordoba.

But today I am on the move once again. This time, as I write this, I’m on a 19hr bus journey northward to Cordoba, travelling with Jorge to a fledgling ywam base where he will be teaching. We will be there one week.

YWAM Cordoba base
The YWAM base in Cordoba.

I guess it is a lot of travelling. Even for me. Somewhere along the way I was even asking myself what I am doing hurtling along to some other place just after getting back. Some people back at my base are starting to ask who I am and what I’m doing there. There are so many new faces now. But here I am, on a bus, heading north.

Jorge teaching
Jorge teaching the Discipleship school students.

As they say… Here again, gone again. Or in my case, home again, gone again. And so I am.

Breakfast in Cordoba
Breakfast in Cordoba (Coffee, maté, biscuits and dulce-de-leche).

Cordoba mall in the city
The main mall in Cordoba city centre.

Cordoba city
Heading into Cordoba city from the YWAM base.

Back Home in South America

I have never been so thankful to be here in South America. After two false starts that almost left me off my flights over here, I have sailed through Chile immigrations and customs checks without even stopping. What a difference to the letter-of-the-law hurdles I needed to jump over just to get here.

Waiting for a toilet to be fixed
Waiting in Brisbane for a toilet to be fixed.

Leaving Australia
First event was in Australia as I tried to leave Brisbane. With my return ticket to Chile I was almost stopped from boarding the plane because there was no proof of an onward journey. Fortunately I was able to argue that since my ticket left me in New Zealand for a couple of days first, that they could let me on for this part of the flight. They agreed and issued me a boarding pass, but it left me concerned about how I would get on with my next flight.

To allay these concerns I quickly visited the LAN Chile airline office and asked their opinion about my predicament. Basically they said that it was illegal to board a passenger who did not have proof of passage out of the country and the airline would be heavily fined if they let me aboard. The important piece of information that they gave me was that their responsibility lay only for that particular leg of the flight, and if I fulfilled this requirement then their legal requirements were satisfied.

Waiting for buses to come and take us to the terminal building.
Waiting for buses to take us to the terminal building in Auckland.

This meant I needed some sort of ticket, but to where. Buying a return ticket would leave me with the same problem as right now. A one-way ticket would also cause lots of problems too. So I first tried to find a more expensive ticket that I could cancel for free, but after looking around there was no such thing as a free lunch. In the end, the cheapest ticket to Buenos Aires one-way served as my sacrificial scape-goat. Instead of seeing it as a lost ticket, I try to look at it as the cost of my visa to enter the country.

Leaving New Zealand
So with ticket in hand, I turn up at the check-in counter in New Zealand and try to board the plane. Again I am met with the same problem. Even with my ticket they tell me that I cannot board the plane because Argentina has the same requirements. Everything looked dim at the moment, until I remembered what they had told me at the LAN Chile office. On presenting my case, that all I wanted to do was board this particular flight and deal with further problems when I get to them, and stating that their only legal requirement was seeing that I had this onward ticket, they finally agreed to let me on board.

Sunset as we takeoff in Auckland.
Watching the sunset as we take-off in Auckland, NZ.

Then came the baggage problem. Qantas shows in all of their documentation that flights to and from South America allow two checked bags of 32kgs each. So like a good traveller, I filled my two allowed bags with 31.8kgs and 31.6kgs and boarded the plane. This worked fine in getting to New Zealand, but now it was a problem. Apparently only flights continuing through Santiago to another destination are allowed 32kgs. My flight, that terminated in Santiago itself, had a baggage restriction of 23kgs per piece.

Once again there was another discussion explaining the differences between the Qantas policy and the LAN Chile policy which ended up including one of the supervisors. After seeing my dilemma this kind man waved the penalty fees for overweight baggage and allowed them through. Getting that boarding pass in my hand had never felt better.

Almost back in South America
Aboard and traveling home to South America.

Just as I was about to leave the counter girl asked to weigh my hand luggage. Gulp. That too was overweight, coming in at 9.3kgs for a 7kg limit. I started to sweat and ran through my mind all of the things that were in it and which things I may be able to get rid of. She then asked me, “Do you think you can reshuffle some of the things in there to reduce that weight to 7kgs?” I just smiled and said, “sure!” And I walked away.

Getting to Chile
With all of the difficulties in getting onto each plane, something inside me started to believe that the same thing would happen when I got to Chile. I started to imagine being pulled aside into a room to account for why I have two laptops, four telephones, dozens of books many of which I have several of the same title, and lots of other electronic gadgets and gizmos. It also seemed highly probable, after my Aus/NZ treatment that perhaps they would stop me from entering the country.

Back in Chile again.
Tasting freedom – back in Chile again.

After landing in Santiago airport, I wandered through the glass-walled corridors looking out at a land that I was starting to consider that I may never be able to enter. How wrong I was. The immigrations never even asked me for an onward ticket. They circled and stamped my paper as though I was a local and let me pass. Simple.

Customs was the same. Straight through after sending my bags through the x-ray machine. Never have I retrieved my bags so fast as I did today, but there were no problems, no questions, no issues, no fuss. I was back in South America again. My home. The land that treats people as people and not as numbers, that looks at the spirit of the law and not the letter, the land that I have grown to love.

Sunset in Santiago, Chile.
Enjoying the sunset over Santiago city, Chile.

Loving South America
People have asked me various times about what it is that I really like about South America, what it is that draws me back. I like that people here are allowed to use their common sense, to take risks, to be who they are. The governments here have not yet wrapped people up in cotton wool so tight that they cannot move in the guise of trying to protect them. Life here has a lot less rules, and I guess that is one of the reasons why I like it so much.

The Journey Home

Chilean flags
Saying farewell to Chile as I head toward Argentina.

Snowy border crossing
Heavy snowfalls covered the mountains between countries.

Argentine Immigrations
Passing through the Argentine border was painless.

Reaching Bariloche
Reaching Bariloche city, the last stop before home.

The bus home
The last bus heading back to Puerto Madryn. Only 11 more hours to go.

Last Day in NZ

In just a moment I begin my journey to the airport again. Time to move onward to Chile. It has been a good couple of days here in NZ, catching up with some dear friends. These days, although there are more people that I would have really loved seeing while here, it is prudent to spend good amounts of quality time with few than a few moments with many. Perhaps the next time that I am here…

Walter
Catching up with Walter and Teresa.

Last Day Blues

It is late night now, and tomorrow I fly out. Anything that I have not yet done will remain undone, anyone that I have not yet seen I will not get to see. My time here is now over, and I am heading back to my home in South America, with a quick stop in New Zealand.

Farewelling my parents as I leave Australia
A last farewell to my parents before leaving Australia.
One of the things that has amazed me is how hard it is to get around to everybody in the small amount of time that I have been here. Although there has been lots of time in terms of days, most people seem to only have their nights spare to catch up with people, which leaves me with big chunks of the daytime free and nobody to see. As a result, and also because of some poor planning, there have been some people dear to me whom I have not been able to see.

This seems crazy now, looking back on it, but yet somehow it happened. There is no chance now to undo what is done, to find time where it no longer exists. Now I am gone for yet another period of unspecified time. Hopefully the next time we will be able to catch up.

Back in Brissy

Well, after seeing my mate tie the knot in the most amazing city of Melbourne, I am back again in good ol’ Brissy. Melbourne was a fun place to be and full of activities, but getting back here I have been treated to some wild speedboat racing. Not a bad event to have going on just down the road from home.

Now with only one more week to go, life is filled with making decisions about what stuff to take back with me and what stuff to leave here. Not as easy as it sounds, with considerations for nosey customs officers at the different border crossings, weight limitations on the flight, and just being able to lug it all with me as I change from bus to bus to bus on my journey back home.

Of course there is the important final catch up with my friends too. In South America I would simply rock up to each friend’s house, perhaps with a quick call while on my way over. They would invite me in for a meal and a chat and we would enjoy a few hours or so of catch-up. Over here life is a little different. I have my calendar and sit at home calling each person. We then compare the spare slots on our calendars and see if and where we can fit some sort of catch-up in. Normally this will be a night at the movies, breakfast at some coffee house, dinner at Hog’s Breath Cafe or some other “event” where we get to chat a little too.

Highly organised, and without too much flexibility. But at least I know within the first few days who I will be seeing up until the day I go. Different cultures, different styles. And somehow I am trying to fit into both of them.

Chris and Geena Married

Well, my whole reason for coming over to Australia this time was to be at Chris and Geena’s wedding. Yesterday they just got married, and what a beautiful wedding it was.

One of the things that struck me about their wedding was that it was the most relaxed wedding that I have ever been to. Set in one of the oldest churches in Melbourne, I had the honour of standing next to Chris with two other mates of his as he and Geena tied the knot.

Getting married
Tying the knot, Geena’s brother performed the ceremony.

We then wandered around the city, taking photos in doorways and cafes and other interesting nooks and crannies. It was the end of the Friday work day so the place was full of people and heads were turning everywhere as our bridal party of six wandered along with Chris and Geena. Of course, Chris being the cowboy, had his big hat on for most of the time and looked good in it too.

Leaving the church
Chris and Geena leave the church.
When the bride and groom took off in their horse and carriage to the reception, I loaded up the Audi with the bridesmaids and we zoomed off to try and beat them there. It didn’t quite work, but it was fun trying and soon enough we were all together at the Willows restaurant.

The wedding party
The wedding party.

A fine series of speeches and lovely food was followed by a lot of energetic dancing before we all waved the happily married couple off as they were chauffered away in the Audi to their hotel for the night. Sometime later they will be heading over to Malaysia for a honeymoon on some unknown island and mostly deserted beach.

Everyone together
Everyone together.

Well done Chris and Geena. It was fantastic to be there.

The boys
The boys and the famous cowboy hat.

Chris and Geena posing
Chris and Geena enjoying the moment.

Horse and carriage
Chris takes Geena to the reception in the carriage.

One happy man
One very happy man.

A New Car

It was amazing, something that really caught me off guard. I had been travelling around the place in an old beat-up car. It was enough to get me around but noisy, without a stereo, and with windows that fogged up every time it rained… and it just so happened that it was raining almost the entire first week that I have been here.

Then my mate asked me if I would like a better car to travel around in. It seemed reasonable, and since he was in a position where he could make such an offer, I accepted. Two days later, on the Monday, I rocked up to his work place and dropped off my old beast of a car. He handed me the keys and showed me the car. I could hardly believe it. Here was a brand new vehicle, with only 800 kms on the clock.

A new car, quiet and powerful that handles like a dream, complete with a CD player with steering wheel controls and lots of other goodies. A remote control for locking and unlocking, power windows and climate control airconditioning. Wow, I could not have asked for more and it is mine until I go again. Now that is a good mate for ya. Good on ya Eric, thanks heaps mate.