Arriving in Lima, Peru

The bus ride from Tacna to Lima took 22 hours, leaving at 2pm one day and arriving at 12pm the next day. Once again we were on a long journey. Passing through customs was without any problems and we took advantage of the small shop there and the delay in getting the bus through to grab ourselves some better food than the sandwiches that are offered on-board. This was the last sign of civilization for a long time.

boarding the bus
Boarding the bus in Tacna.

The desert area here is completely barren and very hot and dry. There seems to be no plant that grows in this landscape and yet as we drive along the road, the only sign that this inhospitable land has been invaded by people, suddenly great concrete jungles of cities loom up and we are engulfed by their myriads of buildings. Within these cities there are sections of grass, trees, and other signs of life, distracting the inhabitants from the grim reality of the desert that encircles them.

International terminal
The international terminal in Tacna, Peru, filled with international taxis.

Before long the night comes, and sleep along with it. By the time we wake up, we have passed through Pisco and the earthquake zone and are getting very close to Lima. Some heavy traffic greets us as we move into the capital city of Peru and our bus labours to move through it. Finally we are done, we reach the bus terminal and grab our bags. What happens next is still uncertain. Six days of travel so far, with four of them on buses.

Going through customs
Passing through the customs search building. We make it through easily but the bus delays in getting through the gate.

We should be moving onward, finishing the journey. But we cannot. A visa problem left one of the students stranded in Buenos Aires, and we need to wait for her to arrive at the airport here. The question now is who waits and who goes. So it is time for lunch, and some decisions. We take refuge in Paul’s uncles place, using it to store our bags so we can go out for a meal and stop at internet for a moment.

Green next to desert
When the green ends, the desert begins immediately.

Sandy and few rocks
Finding rocks in this desert was very unusual.

Green and brown
The difference that a little water can make in such a dry place is amazing.

Selling to the bus passengers
Every time the bus stopped we were swamped with people trying to sell things to those on the bus.

Local village
Passing through a local village, supported by a nearby river.

River in desert
Streams of living water in dry places… a strong flowing river for such a desert area.

Beach resort
One of many local beach resorts as we near Lima – the next day.

Rich beach community
A rich beachside community on the outskirts of Lima.

Main street in Lima
Finally we reach the busy streets of Lima, Peru.

Stopping in Taxi
Stopping outside the house of Pauls Uncle to find a refuge in the middle of Lima.

Heading Northward – Chile

Here are a few photos and some descriptions about our journey northward. The most significant part of the journey was what we saw along the way, so it makes sense to let you see the photos rather than write much about it this time.

water bottle
One of the things you do while bored at midnight on the bus to Chile… play with water bottles and headlamps and then take photos of it.

Making the next bus
Arriving in Santiago, we did not even get our bags off the first bus before they were calling us over to this next bus as it was ready for departure and waiting for us.

First beaches north of Santiago
Some of the first beaches north of Santiago in Chile were beautiful and very inviting too. If ever there comes an opportunity, I can see a return to the old sport of spear-fishing again.

wind power
Wind turbines indicate that this place sees a lot more wind than we experienced during our trip.

Sleeping beauties
It’s probably a bit mean to put this photo up, but the reality was that Yamila and Lorena slept through virtually the entire journey. So it seemed appropriate to share it as part of our experience on the journey northward. Of course they missed out on all of the wonderful sights because they were sleeping.

Vegetation exists
Note how much grass and vegetation exists here. This is still relatively close to Santiago. It changes quickly however.

Seaside resort
An (almost) island seaside resort. It does look very inviting. No idea where it is, as we only found our map of Chile once we had reached Peru. So it has not helped us at all.

Local fishing villiage
A local fishing village, and the place where the bus almost left without us. I had visited the local loo, and when I returned to the bus, it had already pulled out from the platform and was about to take off. Fortunately the door was still open, so I dived inside before it closed. Somehow I suspect (hope) they were waiting for me in their own, rather rushed, way.

Barren household
Suddenly the landscape changes to mostly desert. This is one lonely house in the middle of a long drive to nowhere. It surprised me just how many people chose to live in the middle of nowhere… and I still wonder where they get the water they need to survive out there.

Not only barren, but also rocky
The landscape was not only barren, but also rocky and barren in some places.

Desertscape
The desert-scape was quite amazing in places as we looked out over the amazing mountains that surrounded us. Climbing up and over them caused our ears to pop frequently.

Greenery where there is water
Not everywhere was desert. In some places there were rivers that sustained enough water to reach the sea. Sometimes this water was a mere trickle, but the people built farms around it and dug holes to capture it. As a result there were a couple of places with really green farmland that stood out in sharp contrast with the desert lands surrounding it.

sunset
Sunset on our first day. There was still the entire night and half a day left before we would reach Arica, our destination city at the top end of Chile.

Climbing mountains
The next day was more of the same, until we started climbing up and down many mountains and valleys such as this one.

Houses in a river-bed
Houses and properties built along the riverbed of a large valley. We had almost reach Arica by now, and came over the last hill to see hundreds of these houses stretching out along the dry riverbed. I guess it never floods in a place like this.

Houses along the riverbed
Looking out along the riverbed scattered with houses everywhere. They extended for a long way to the left also.

Coca-cola mountain
Coca-cola gets to etch its advertising slogan even into the mountains here.

Finally arrived in Arica
Finally we have arrived in Arica, the northernmost city of Chile, and right next to the border of Peru. It had been a long journey and we were all exhausted, so it was wonderful to know that we had made it this far.

Our journey northward in Chile was now over, well, apart from crossing the border that was.

Going to Peru

Well, I guess I should add this note to say that as of tomorrow I will be on a bus heading to Peru for various months. Probably two. We stop in Mendoza for Christmas and then keep going using the cheapest way… or the way that has available seats during this crazy travel time.

The goal is to get to Lima by the New Year, and then head north to Chiclayo to meet up with all of the smarter people who travelled by plane to get there. Haha.

UPDATE: We are now in Mendoza enjoying Christmas with Lorena’s family. Today (26th) we continue our journey again.

The bus team
The four musketeers: Yamila, Paul, Me, and Lorena.

Bus travel
Lorena and Yamila at one of the many stops along the way to Mendoza.

Back Home in South America

I have never been so thankful to be here in South America. After two false starts that almost left me off my flights over here, I have sailed through Chile immigrations and customs checks without even stopping. What a difference to the letter-of-the-law hurdles I needed to jump over just to get here.

Waiting for a toilet to be fixed
Waiting in Brisbane for a toilet to be fixed.

Leaving Australia
First event was in Australia as I tried to leave Brisbane. With my return ticket to Chile I was almost stopped from boarding the plane because there was no proof of an onward journey. Fortunately I was able to argue that since my ticket left me in New Zealand for a couple of days first, that they could let me on for this part of the flight. They agreed and issued me a boarding pass, but it left me concerned about how I would get on with my next flight.

To allay these concerns I quickly visited the LAN Chile airline office and asked their opinion about my predicament. Basically they said that it was illegal to board a passenger who did not have proof of passage out of the country and the airline would be heavily fined if they let me aboard. The important piece of information that they gave me was that their responsibility lay only for that particular leg of the flight, and if I fulfilled this requirement then their legal requirements were satisfied.

Waiting for buses to come and take us to the terminal building.
Waiting for buses to take us to the terminal building in Auckland.

This meant I needed some sort of ticket, but to where. Buying a return ticket would leave me with the same problem as right now. A one-way ticket would also cause lots of problems too. So I first tried to find a more expensive ticket that I could cancel for free, but after looking around there was no such thing as a free lunch. In the end, the cheapest ticket to Buenos Aires one-way served as my sacrificial scape-goat. Instead of seeing it as a lost ticket, I try to look at it as the cost of my visa to enter the country.

Leaving New Zealand
So with ticket in hand, I turn up at the check-in counter in New Zealand and try to board the plane. Again I am met with the same problem. Even with my ticket they tell me that I cannot board the plane because Argentina has the same requirements. Everything looked dim at the moment, until I remembered what they had told me at the LAN Chile office. On presenting my case, that all I wanted to do was board this particular flight and deal with further problems when I get to them, and stating that their only legal requirement was seeing that I had this onward ticket, they finally agreed to let me on board.

Sunset as we takeoff in Auckland.
Watching the sunset as we take-off in Auckland, NZ.

Then came the baggage problem. Qantas shows in all of their documentation that flights to and from South America allow two checked bags of 32kgs each. So like a good traveller, I filled my two allowed bags with 31.8kgs and 31.6kgs and boarded the plane. This worked fine in getting to New Zealand, but now it was a problem. Apparently only flights continuing through Santiago to another destination are allowed 32kgs. My flight, that terminated in Santiago itself, had a baggage restriction of 23kgs per piece.

Once again there was another discussion explaining the differences between the Qantas policy and the LAN Chile policy which ended up including one of the supervisors. After seeing my dilemma this kind man waved the penalty fees for overweight baggage and allowed them through. Getting that boarding pass in my hand had never felt better.

Almost back in South America
Aboard and traveling home to South America.

Just as I was about to leave the counter girl asked to weigh my hand luggage. Gulp. That too was overweight, coming in at 9.3kgs for a 7kg limit. I started to sweat and ran through my mind all of the things that were in it and which things I may be able to get rid of. She then asked me, “Do you think you can reshuffle some of the things in there to reduce that weight to 7kgs?” I just smiled and said, “sure!” And I walked away.

Getting to Chile
With all of the difficulties in getting onto each plane, something inside me started to believe that the same thing would happen when I got to Chile. I started to imagine being pulled aside into a room to account for why I have two laptops, four telephones, dozens of books many of which I have several of the same title, and lots of other electronic gadgets and gizmos. It also seemed highly probable, after my Aus/NZ treatment that perhaps they would stop me from entering the country.

Back in Chile again.
Tasting freedom – back in Chile again.

After landing in Santiago airport, I wandered through the glass-walled corridors looking out at a land that I was starting to consider that I may never be able to enter. How wrong I was. The immigrations never even asked me for an onward ticket. They circled and stamped my paper as though I was a local and let me pass. Simple.

Customs was the same. Straight through after sending my bags through the x-ray machine. Never have I retrieved my bags so fast as I did today, but there were no problems, no questions, no issues, no fuss. I was back in South America again. My home. The land that treats people as people and not as numbers, that looks at the spirit of the law and not the letter, the land that I have grown to love.

Sunset in Santiago, Chile.
Enjoying the sunset over Santiago city, Chile.

Loving South America
People have asked me various times about what it is that I really like about South America, what it is that draws me back. I like that people here are allowed to use their common sense, to take risks, to be who they are. The governments here have not yet wrapped people up in cotton wool so tight that they cannot move in the guise of trying to protect them. Life here has a lot less rules, and I guess that is one of the reasons why I like it so much.

The Journey Home

Chilean flags
Saying farewell to Chile as I head toward Argentina.

Snowy border crossing
Heavy snowfalls covered the mountains between countries.

Argentine Immigrations
Passing through the Argentine border was painless.

Reaching Bariloche
Reaching Bariloche city, the last stop before home.

The bus home
The last bus heading back to Puerto Madryn. Only 11 more hours to go.