The Problems At Victor's
Arriving at Victor's workshop at 8:15am in the morning with all of my bags, I find a place for them at the back of the workshop and then move into place alongside Victor in helping him work on my bike.
Victor and his mechanic in their workshop.
A problem last night was solved with the use of my Siambretta manual which I dug out of my pack, and we soon had the bike together. There was a problem however. The moment we tightened the parts together, the engine refused to turn over. The crank was too wide.
Borrowing Victor's easyrider chopper styled bicycle, I ride off down to Pipa's with the crank in a bag. One hour later I return with everything as narrow as it can be. When we fit it, the same problem occurs and the engine locks up. To solve it, we use some gasket paper which I buy to act as a spacer. It works perfectly.
Finally going again.
With the core of the engine together, Victor and I work on opposite sides of the bike. However, when I put the gearbox cover on, the same thing occurs with the engine refusing to spin. We track it back to a part that I put in wrongly and when that is fixed everything works perfectly.
All of our working and the stops in the middle to fix the wide crank takes us through to midday. Victor wants to stop for siesta, but I can see that this means yet another day in Saenz Peña so I barter with him until he cedes me one more hour.
Looking through the window of Victor's workshop.
The Beast Lives
We only needed half an hour and the bike was ready. It started on the second kick and ran perfectly. I was very happy with how everything was, listening to the motor purring, when suddenly, Gggggggrrrrnnnnk! The motor stops. The inside bits are too tight and when they heat up and expand, they squeeze on the other parts causing the engine to lock up.
My first reaction is to be aghast, but Victor nonchalantly says, "oh, that is normal. You may need to ride around a bit first to 'seat' the parts." He goes on to tell me that this sort of thing will happen a few times as everything is getting used to each other, but it should be further and further apart. I am counselled to ride around the town a bit to help the process.
Victor taking my bike for a test ride.
So as Victor closes up his shop, I jump on my bike and ride it tentatively down the road. Gggggrrrrnnnnnk! It did it again, only a block and a bit away. I wait a few moments then start up and keep going on my way. Ggggggrrrrnnnnk! This time it was almost three blocks. He was right, they are getting further and further apart.
Travelling Around the City
And so I travelled around the city. Riding until the ggggggrrrrrnnnnk! noise stopped me dead in my tracks. First to Pipa's to show them what they were working on (they commended the engine, saying it had not a single noise out of place), and then from one part to another.
Enjoying a thermal bath.
One of my last stops in the city was at the Thermal Complex, a series of baths in private rooms which they fill up with special thermal water. The bath was nice and refreshing, but there did not seem to be anything more to recommend it.
After that was lunch, and then I see a huge storm coming our way so head out towards it to take some pictures of the fierce green clouds. The storm is moving so fast, that I worry it will catch me as I race back to Victor's workshop to continue on my bike.
The approaching storm over the outskirts of the city.
Leaving Town
With the covers on, bags tied down, and everything back where it belongs I farewell Victor and his helper and head off down the road. The rain has left everything filled with water, but rather then going straight onward, I stop by some new acquaintances on the way out. The Hotel Presidente where I stayed the first so many nights, Pipa's again to say farewell, and the service station to fill up the fuel.
Finally leaving the city that had held me for so long.
Everything sorted, I then head back onto the main highway and start my journey. Rejoicing in the ability to move so effortlessly I do not hear the early warning signs. Suddenly, gggrrrrrrnnk. The motor stops dead. A bus is behind me so I drop off the edge of the road and straight into mud. The wheels slip and slide and I almost lose it completely but somehow the bike remains upright.
Leaving tracks in the mud when trying to stop.
Looking back at the storms behind me.
Watching the last rays of the sun disappear.
The dark road that lay ahead.
It was at 6.30pm that I left Saenz Peña, and arrived in Pampa del Infierno at 8.30pm, amidst uncountable engine stops, a missed turn off, and light problems where when the engine cut, so did the lights.
Hotel del Infierno
The first available hotel seems fine to me, and their prices are reasonable. After a nice hot shower I head off down town looking for Internet. The place I was told about was supposed to have broadband connections, but it was horrendously slow to the point that I gave up after just one email.
An old truck and muddy road at the entrance to Pampa del Infierno.
Returning past the hotel I stop at the Parilla (BBQ) for a lovely steak meal and then return to my room. I am exhausted. The physical exertion from such a trip like that left me without any more strength. I try to write my stories but realise that sleep is far more import.
While at the eatery, I learned that Pampa del Infierno is probably named for the lack of water that they have. Most of it has to be imported and it is expensive.
Enjoying a lemonade at the Parilla restaurant.
For me, the best part was that my bike, after six days of work was finally going again. And my journey too.