Heading Out the Door

ready and eager to goIt is time. 8am in the morning and I am heading off now. As you can see, the bike is pretty loaded with all of my stuff. This is how I am travelling to Salta. Today I leave. Where I end up is anybody’s guess. It will be closer to Salta than to Corrientes.

I leave with my backpack behind me, the highway before me, and a desire for adventure within. It has been a longstanding dream of mine to buy a scooter and travel around Italy, and when I arrived in Argentina that dream became to buy a scooter and travel around South America. Today I start that dream.

It is always hard to leave behind the friendships that have been forged over the years. To move on to another place is starting again from scratch. It is both exciting and sad. It is not something that should ever be done lightly, but sometimes it is time to go. To move on.

Today, it is my time.

So I go, and in going, I thank all of my dear friends for their friendship, and their investment in my life. Thank you for the “footprints” you have left in my life. For the changes that just by being there, you have caused in me. Thank you. Thank you so much. I will miss you. Every one of you.

It is never easy saying goodbye. Even when you are heading out the door.

packed and ready to go
A loaded bike.

on the bike and packed
Ready to go.

My mascott
My mascot – Wile Coyote.

celebration time
Celebration Time.

Blackout in the City

I had just arrived and used my last pennies in buying my favorite food, "Chipacitos." These little bread-cheese balls left me without a cent, but they were lovely. The next stop was the bank to correct this situation.

one lonely shop with lights
Along the main city pedestrian mall is one lonely shop with lights.

In the bank was a line of people but the air-conditioning was lovely. Outside it was in the mid 30’s but the charts were saying that it felt like 44 degrees Celsius. I could not disagree with them. It was already 8pm at night but the temperature had not yet budged. So standing in line for an automatic bank machine was not a big issue at all in this lovely and cool room.

When finally it was my turn, everybody had left the large multi-machine room that I was in. Inserting my card in the machine and going through the familiar processes to which I had become accustomed, I was surprised to have the machine spit my card back out again and tell me it was rejected. This was unusual behavior as I had previously used my card successfully in this very machine.

Unperturbed, I considered another previous experience when the same thing had happened. When I tried another machine in the same room during that experience, everything worked out fine. Thinking that this would be the same sort of thing here, I removed my card and walked over to the machine next to mine, preparing it to enter the slot.

supermarket flooding the street with light
Only darkness except for a supermarket that provides some light later on.

At that moment in time, just as my hand was reaching forward to insert my card, the lights flickered and went out for a moment, returned again, and then dropped out for good. As I was taking in all of these events, the monitor of the teller machine in front of me suddenly disappeared, caving into a center dot of light which slowly faded to nothingness.

There I was, standing in a bank where all power had been lost. No backup power, no cameras, no machines. But I had my card in my hand. By the grace of God I had my card in my hand. Getting a card out of a machine over here is a significant task, and if you arrive late then the card is destroyed. So I was very thankful that I had my card with me, even though I was still completely broke.

In leaving the bank, I discover that this power outage had affected the entire city center. There was no lights at all down the pedestrian mall that marked the heart of the city. It was complete blackness. Shops were moving customers out and closing their doors. People still moved around, but the only light provided was that by the cars at each intersection.

people standing at an intersection
The only light available was from passing cars at the intersections.

After hanging around for half an hour, some of the stores started to turn on generators to give lights that cast a glow over the darkness hanging around the place. People still wandered casually up and down the street as though nothing had happened, watched cautiously by bewildered shop owners and attendants staring out of their locked glass doors. Others rested on the benches in the darkness, watching the shapes of those that kept on wandering.

The shops that now had light were once again open for business. For lack of competition for attention, each of these scattered places was very popular and filled with people. It took over an hour for the lights to come back on again, by which time I had climbed onto my motorbike and headed back home.

Of course the drive home was also very interesting. No traffic lights nor street lights made it very dangerous along the main avenue that I was traveling down. The lights on my old motorbike did not reach too far ahead, so I was left to search out bicycles and mopeds crossing my path by their shadows in the lights of approaching cars.

icecream shop with basic lights
The popularity of shops with lights increased.

Many of the intersections that I was able to identify, and there were quite a number that I passed through before realizing, involved an unintentional game of chicken with other drives vying to cross over in front of me. There was only one harrowing moment when I had to duck and weave through some bicycles but the rest of the journey was bearable.

Returning to my neighborhood revealed lights and everything functioning normally. There had been a moment when the lights dimmed but it did not cut off. In my travel back here, this would be one of the few areas in the city that were not dotted with darkness. The blackout was the worst I have experienced yet.

Siambretta Ready to Go – Oh Hang On!

An afternoon storm thundered down upon us, the lightning striking close by and cutting electricity to our area. Water filled up any available hole or depression and quickly turned our dirt roads into strips of mud and holes of muddy water. It did not look like I would be able to go and pick up my motorbike today.

deep mud holes of water
When heading out to town this was the state of the roads after the storm.

It was much later that the rain stopped and the heavy storm clouds started to lighten up. Eager to go and get my motorbike, I quickly jumped on a bus and headed out to old Mr Verdun’s place to see how it was. It took too buses to get there, but when I arrived my bike was fully assembled, sitting there waiting for me to pick it up.

Chatting with Mr Verdun I learn that everything has been sorted out and the bike runs very well. We fire it up and it sounds like a drag-racing bike. The idling is a little rough but it started easily. I am told that the idling gets better once the bike is warm and that this has something to do with the cylinder being re-sleeved. The noise of the bike is due to a bad muffler – another item that will need to be replaced at some point.

right side of bike showing muffler
The bad muffler that causes the bike to sound super loud and crackly.

I climb on the bike and take it around the block for a test ride. Everything is working well and the thing has a lot more power than it did before, wanting to jump forward in every gear. The gears no longer jump out or cause any problems either, and when I try the brakes, the bike stops rapidly even to the point of locking up the back wheel.

Everything looks great and I am ready to leave. Before I do however, we wait a little while to prove that the bike also does not flood anymore as it used to do. This takes us into the twilight of evening as we talk about the right mix ratios for the two-stroke oil and petrol and how my carburetor now has a main jet of 80 in place of the 90 that was there. For two old mechanics it all made sense.

Mr Verdun's garage
One part of Mr Verdun’s garage with all of his Siambretta parts.

We try the bike again and it works fine, so I pay the man, grab my helmet and jump on the bike. Ready to go and with the bike idling, I switch over to turn on my headlight and see no light at all. Checking again and moving the levers, switches and key to be sure that all are in the right place, it becomes obvious that there are no lights.

Mr Verdun, who is standing right next to me, is very surprised and tells me that he checked the horn earlier today and it was working fine. Both the lights and the horn work on the same system. No matter what we both do, there are no lights, and by now it is getting dark, so we wheel the bike back to his yard and under the glow of an incandescent light Mr Verdun checks for the problem with a test lamp.

Mr Verdun working on the bike
Mr Verdun trying to identify the problem of the missing lights.

It is something on the inside of the bike. It will need to be disassembled again to fix. Poor old Mr Verdun is now starting to mutter various Spanish words to himself relating to his embarrassment for what has just occurred. When we discover that the problem is something on the inside he looks up to me from his work position with a resigned look on his face and informs me that I will have to come back for the bike tomorrow.

Having been in his place in a very similar situation before, I simply smile and tell him that there is no problems with that at all. He tells me that I can come early in the morning to pick it up if I like as we shake hands. I head back to the city center for my bus stop, some 15 blocks away, leaving poor old Mr Verdun illuminated by the dull orange glow of his work light. He is crouched down by my bike, probably thinking through all of the possible causes that may have caused the problem.

the problem area for the lights
Something under that wheel is causing the problem.

So now it is Friday that I will pick up my bike. I have already tried it and it rides well. There is a very noticeable difference in the way the bike behaves, and it will be great to get it out and about on the roads to see just how much difference there really is. But for now, I am on buses until tomorrow.

Earlier Versions

Over the years this website has changed and evolved. It started off using the TYPO3 CMS but since this was just a blog, this engine was far too powerful. So the next stage involved a change over to Mambo Server’s amazing system (also now in Joomla flavour) which also proved to be more than necessary for what I wanted. The next move was to Movable Type but I quickly swapped to WordPress, the current version, when MT had a major flaw that prevented any form of posting for almost two weeks.

WordPress has provided a very satisfying and reliable experience in all of the time that I have been using it and it keeps getting better. The availability of so many plugins, themes, and help pages has been a strong factor also.

As a result of all of these changes, most of the earlier sites are now no longer available. Most, if not all of the content has now been integrated into this site, so it is not lost even though the original links no longer work.

If you have come to this page without choosing it then it is because you were looking for something on one of these older sites. You will probably find it through a quick search of some key words relating to the content.

Alternatively you may like to visit these two places where some of the original content has been preserved:

http://samafas.com/origsite/
The original site and layout that started the new samafas.com domain and now contains links and information about the original content that has existed over the years.
http://groovyguppy.com
The original domain where it all started, with a portion of the original TYPO3 powered website now in static format. To get the best out of this site you will need to browse it with Internet Explorer because the menu does not work in Firefox (suggestions on how to fix this are welcomed). Please note that all of this content can also be found on this blog.

Time to Celebrate – Almost

Well, after so many weeks of fighting, running around, paying fees, and seeking solutions, I finally have the receipt to say that it is now all over. Of course, it is not completely over yet, but the worst of it certainly is. Now comes the wait. At the office they told us that it is normally 60 days, others have told us that it will take up to 3 months, while there is some hope that it will take less than 30 days as some other bikes have been returned within such a short time frame.

A receipt for all of my work
The end product of all of my hard work. A receipt in triplicate.

This receipt that provides me with the proof that I have finished all of the hard work is all I need to travel around on my bike. Of course I also need the authorization from Sergio to drive, but ironically his name does not appear on any of the documents at all.

One of the most amazing things that happened to us today was in the final processing of all the documents. We took everything to the registry office of Motor-vehicles but were told that we had filled out one of the forms wrongly. My heart sank as I thought about lining up for yet another half an hour wait once we had fixed the document again… something that would take yet another day or two. That was when both Sergio and I were surprised. The guy attending us told us that he had one of those forms and we could fill it out then and there.

stamp rack filled up
One of a number of stamp racks that sat on the desks for completing the paperwork.

This was absolutely incredible for this place. Most people would move us on for even a simple or small error, so to be given such an immediate and complete solution to our problem was fantastic. Well, fantastic for us. The half an hour that it took us to fill out and finish all of the forms then and there also added to the waiting time of everyone else present in the office, but most seemed not to be too upset about it all.

So with the help of this friendly attendant we completed our paperwork and received the all important receipt. When it is ready we then swap the receipt and the old paperwork for new number plates and new documentation. At that point the entire process is completed and the bike is officially Sergio’s. We are very close now.

To celebrate the completion of so much paperwork, I took off down to the riverside to enjoy the sunset. Just because I could. In the process I took a couple of photos, and one with my bike in it to prove that I was there.

bike by the bridge
My bike by the Corrientes-Resistencia intra-provincial bridge.

lone fishing boat
A lone fishing boat fights against the strong river current.

fishermen on the rocks
Fishermen try their luck from the rocks next to a beach.

sunset behind the bridge
Sunset behind the bridge.

fishermen preparing their nets
Fishermen preparing their nets for the night.

the bridge to resistencia
Looking down the bridge as it travels over toward Resistencia.

The Paperwork Saga Continues

Starting early in the morning, Sergio and I raced into town intent on finishing all of the outstanding paperwork on my Siambretta motorscooter. We had prepared our paperwork the evening before and could see that we were now very close. So at around 8.30am in the morning we walked into the main government building armed with our paperwork.

Sergio armed with mate
Sergio getting into the car armed with yerba mate and thermos.

The Bad News
The first thing that was needed was to line up and pay two different taxes. The line only had about 8 people in it so it did not take long before we were at the counter. Here, the lady punched in numerous items on her keyboard and eventually presented us with two papers, one a bill for $3.50 and the other was for $7.00 pesos. We could not pay these here however, but had to go instead to the cashiers and line up to pay there.

It was a new employee working at the cashiers who served us. A superior officer with his thermos and yerba mate in hand, was standing behind guiding him. To pay the fee we passed over a $20 peso note after our bills were scanned, and the new man was instructed to key this amount into the computer system and then press enter.

At that point, the experienced officer leaned over and pointed out how the system had worked out the change owing and was now displaying this on the screen. "Look at that!" He exclaimed. "Isn’t that marvelous! It tells you exactly what you need to give them." And he shook his head with wonder at the incredible power of this technologically driven system.

a shop with a photocopier
Waiting in line in a shop to photocopy documents. Virtually every shop has a photocopier, probably a result of paperwork sagas.

Having obtained our last outstanding paper we went to the required desk where we needed to present them all. The lady received us and looked through our paperwork. She stopped on the way through, pointing out one of our photocopies. "This must be certified as a true copy." She said. We were told that there is no other way around it.

Solving the Problem
Deflated, we headed out of the building and straight to the office of our Escribana who can do these sorts of things. Unfortunately she was not there yet, and a call to her mobile phone revealed that she would be another half an hour. So we pulled out our mate and sat down on the side of the road to wait. While we waited, I taught Sergio some of the essentials about taking photos, knowing that he was soon going to receive his very first camera.

sergio waiting
Showing Sergio how to take surreptitious photos of people.

We watched the cars, bikes, motorbikes and horses and carts wander by as we enjoyed our yerba mate and chatted about all sorts of things. Before long a whole hour had passed by and there was still no sign of our Escribana. After calling her cell phone once again we discover that she was already in her office. Somehow she had arrived without us seeing her.

Our escribana could not sign the papers directly, as she was not at the level that allowed her to do that, and yet we needed these papers signed as soon as possible. So we asked her if it was possible to get them done immediately, and she kindly agreed.

yerba mate
Enjoying yerba mate while we wait for our Escribana.

We traveled in Sergio’s car to her normal place of work and then waited by the car while she went up to the office. She returned empty handed. There was nobody present that could sign the papers until midday. This was a great disappointment, and we explained our dilemma to her, asking if there was any other way of getting the papers signed. She agreed to visit some of her original employers who also may be able to help.

On visiting this new location, our Escribana returned with our papers signed and ready to hand over. We thanked her profusely (even though I will have to pay for that privilege anyway), dropped her back at her office, and returned to the main governmental office to finish our paperwork.

the main government office
The main government office that we have visited countless times.

Returning Prepared
What we were about to do was finalize almost two weeks of waiting and paperwork. All of this paperwork and waiting was actually just to get one more paper for our primary objective of transferring the motorbike over to Sergio’s name. It has been a lot of work for one piece of paper.

Walking back into the building, the lines of waiting people stretched for almost half of the building length. We were now very familiar with all of the sections, desks, offices, lines, cashiers, and other places that had occupied our time during this whole process, and walked directly to the place we needed to be. There was no line here. Our paperwork was complete now, and we knew it. We handed it over to the lady at the desk and she carefully looked through it all once again. Yes, it was complete.

Are We Done Yet?
We were then handed another form to fill out. My heart sank, but then I realised that this form was something that we were to fill out here and now. Sergio filled in the form, signed it just as he had signed dozens of other forms before it, and handed it back to the lady. It was done. She accepted it.

kids on horse and cart
One of the horses and carts that passed us while we were waiting.

With this piece of paper we will then be able to continue the main process and hopefully finish today. We watched as she put all of our papers together on a pile of mounting paperwork, presumably containing dozens of similar papers. She then reached into her folder and pulled out a small strip of paper, tore it in half and handed us one part. "Come back on Friday," she tells us.

Once again the paperwork saga drags on. Perhaps on Friday I will be able to get that paper, or perhaps there are more steps yet. Each list that we are given only gives us a little bit of information. Sometimes those steps listed can take a long time to achieve and hide within themselves dozens upon dozens of other steps. So far what I have learned about doing things here in Argentina is that you must have patience. Lots of patience.

And time. Lots of time.

I never left Saenz Peña, But Maybe Tomorrow

Today was the day. I had all my parts together now. They only needed to be assembled I would be on my way. Perhaps even by midday. It was good to know that things were now going well. I checked out of my hotel and wandered down to Pipa’s workshop with the parts and proudly placed them on the bench.

pipas workshop
Arriving at Pipa’s Workshop first thing in the morning.

Andre, the guy that works the lathe, looked over them and frowned. The parts that I had were not enough. They would not work. A crank pin, the pivotal point of the engine (literally), needed to be exact but the one I had was too short. This would cause some serious problems later. So Andre grabs the bits and takes off down to the parts store on the corner in search of one that could work.

Andre frowning at my parts
Andre looking over the parts I had layed before him.

The crank pin that he comes back with is considerably larger than needed, but is the only likely candidate. Made of hardened steel, when he puts it on the lathe it takes hours of work to get it down to size. The most important thing is that he does not make it too small or else the bike will self-destruct within a short period of time.

the crank pins and crank arm
(L) Pin supplied by me. (M) Pin being fabricated. (R) Original old pin.

I wait and watch the process for two hours, but other work is also pressing and am told to return at 4pm when it should all be done. The preparation of this pin is taking a long time, but I feel confident that it will be successful in the end. To bide my time while I am waiting, I stop by the thermal pool complex touted as the best in the country and discover that it is all presented in standard bathtubs.

green pool of algae
The algae green pool outside.

The large pool outside is unused and green with algae as a result, and inside the complex is similar to a hospital with private rooms holding the baths. The people there give me some information about the place and a handful of tourist information brochures for Chaco, the province that I am currently in.

me at the hairdressers
Trying to smile, aim the camera and do it all before the lady returns.

After a haircut at a local hairdressers, I grab my hotel room for the afternoon only, and seize the opportunity to catch up on missed sleep, then wake in time to visit Pipa’s at 4pm. When I get there the place is closed. Some whistling behind me alerts me to Andre sitting on the other side of the road, waiting for the shop to open. He was planning on working through the siesta, but upon his return from an early lunch the shop was shut tight leaving him stranded outside.

Andre working the pin
Andre working the crank pin to a highly exact size.

Starting with the crank pin yet again, Andre works it on the lathe, bringing it closer and closer to the size it needs to be. There are no guides to help him, it is just trial and error. Cutting into it a little more and then checking to make sure it is not too much. I wait once again. Watching the process and wondering, as the hours tick by, when it will be ready.

Finally he gets the pin right, but it is a little too long and needs cutting. A hacksaw seems to work, but takes another half an hour of effort to finally get through the hard steel. Next comes the assembly which also consumes considerable time.

cutting the pin with a hacksaw
Cutting the pin with a hacksaw.

As the hours roll around to 6pm I start to wonder if I will get the bike together today, but determine myself that I will. Going up to Victor’s workshop I advise him of my intentions to finish the bike today. When he informs me of some missing parts I make sure that I get them on my way back to Pipa’s.

Back at Pipa’s, the crank is done, and the cylinder has just been bored out 0.20″ and is looking great. I wait around for Andre to finish the replacement piston, cutting material off it until it fits neatly into the new cylinder size. With that completed, the entire job is done. I have everything I need.

turning the piston
Andre working on the piston for my engine.

Grabbing a cab and telling the guy I am in a rush I head back to Victor’s workshop to re-assemble the bike. My instructions to the cab driver have not seemed to got through. We are still moving along as if we were in a Driving Miss Daisy film, casually moving across the roads at a comfortable 30 kms/h. Rather than fight it, I decide to enjoy it, and sit back and watch the world go by (slowly). We will get there eventually anyway.

At Victor’s workshop I find Victor and his helper working on my bike. He has not got too far on it yet, so I hand him the new parts and give them a hand. We are working in a frenzy, trying to get everything done tonight. It does not work. Soon enough we come to a part that does not want to go together, leaving us stuck.

a parts shop
Getting a needed seal from a local bearing shop.

Rather than fight the issues then and there, it seemed wiser to call it quits now, starting in the morning again. Then I could bring my Siambretta book with all of the details of how things go together, to ensure we were doing it right.

That meant however, that I would be staying another night, and my hotel was fully booked so I did not have a room there. Instead, I looked for a hotel closer to Victor’s. The only one I found that had rooms left was the International Hotel, which was a bit of a hovel. It had no single rooms left, and the double I paid for cost more than my room at the Presidente Hotel and was much less of a room. Very disappointing.

posters on Pipa's walls
Posters of Pipa’s winning streak in Racing on his workshop walls.

I never left Saenz Peña, but maybe tomorrow.

She Broke Down Again

It was a perfect day yesterday with beautiful blue skies. I was cruising along the main highway towards home with Jorge, the leader of the YWAM base in Puerto Madryn, on the back of my bike when suddenly there was no more power left. By the time we pulled to a slow stop along the edge of the route, we had almost reached the turnoff to my suburb. But the motor had stopped and there was no way I was going to be able to start it again.


The bike in which I am putting so much confidence.

So putting Jorge on the bike as my guest, I pushed the now dead bike with him steering it, all the way back home. Running. Barefoot because my flip-flops would not stay on my feet. Through the patches of mud that had not yet dried up. Through the broken glass scattered across the street. Past the rougher part of our area. Over the slight rise and back down the other side. Block by block, pushing, pushing, pushing.

We arrived in silence with no motor to announce our presence. The engine was dead, without any compression to give it life. One of the gaskets that seal the joints had broken and left me stranded. So on Monday it is back to old Mr Verdun for repair. How do I get it there? Oscar, one of my friends with a newer motorbike will be pulling me along with a rope.

Until then, with blue skies and two days off, I am stranded without transport. There are only two weeks left now before I leave for Salta on this bike. That is a 10 hour journey. But as Oscar said to me, it is better that all of the problems occur now than in the middle of the desert near to nothing while I am traveling along on my large journeys. I have to agree.

Lehman Ready for Church

Every day is a different day here, and sometimes it rains so much that there is large puddles of water and mud everywhere. So getting to church in good shoes can be a daunting task. Lehman has solved all of these problems by an ingenious system. It is a combination of farmer and city-boy.

Here he is in all of his glory, ready to walk out the door for church…

Lehman ready for church
Pay special attention to those classic style church shoes.

Off to the Mechanic

Earlier this morning Oscar and I connected our bikes together with rope and he towed me along to my mechanic. It took only 15 seconds for my mechanic to work out the problem and he did not look very excited that it had happened.

being towed along
Being towed along just near the point that my engine died yesterday.

Apparently it will be ready for me tonight. So in faith I will be climbing onto a bus for the 50 minute journey to town, with another 20 minute walk down to the workshop in the expectation that the bike will be ready for me when I get there.

riding back with Oscar
Riding back home on Oscar’s bike.

UPDATE: Well, I returned at 7.30pm and when I got there the bike was ready to go. Not only had old Mr Verdun replaced the head gasket that was broken, but he also fixed up the oil leak for me too. So I am back on the road again with my head-turning super-medium-fast almost-antique motorscooter once again. And it is good.

the blown head gasket
The blown head gasket that caused all of my woes.