Siambretta Under The Knife

That was it. I had had enough. While changing gears on my bike it kept jumping out, the clutch kept slipping, the thing was really hard to start, the brakes were dangerous because they simply did not stop the bike, and it really lacked in power. Phew. Lots of problems.

long road
A long stretch of road in Argentina.

I loved the bike but these things were starting to get to me and I knew that if I was going to start riding it some long distances then they would cause even more problems. Argentina has some very long stretches of road with nothing in between. If I broke down on one of those stretches then it would be a long long way to walk to get help.

Mr. Verdun’s Report
That was the point that I decided it would be better to get the help of an expert. So I took my bike down to Mr. Verdun who is an expert in Siambretta motorbikes. At something around seventy years of age, he has been working on these bikes since they started selling them in Argentina back in the 50’s. In one of his comments, he shared that he was even one of the official Inocenti mechanics for their Siambretta range of bikes. Since then he has never stopped working on them, and his yard shows the years of collected bikes, frames and other bits and pieces.

bike graveyard
Part of the graveyard at the house of Mr. Verdun.

A man the likes of Mr. Verdun would soon be able to sort out all of the things wrong with my bike and get it up and running again in good condition. So it did not surprise me when I took the bike down to him that he started to identify areas that would need to be looked at. We dug around in various parts of the bike, and chatted about different areas that needed help. At the end of our chat he climbed aboard and rode around the block to check it out. His report was actually quite promising.

There were certain things that we knew had to be repaired on the bike. These were the obvious things, such as the clutch and the brakes. The gears also seemed to need to be replaced too, but after his ride I was told that only 3rd gear had a problem. The lack of power was due to worn rings in the cylinder, and the bike sounded like an chainsaw because of an old exhaust pipe with lots of holes in it.

Mr. Verdun
Mr. Verdun, the Siambretta man.

My newly hired mechanic was now going to pull apart the bike and assess the rest of the problems that may exist inside the gearbox. Things like the chain, gears, bearings, and other areas all needed to be inspected. My task was to return at the end of the day. I did, and by the end of the assessment there was a list of things that needed to be replaced, repaired, or re-manufactured. One of the things that I love about Argentina is that if they do not have it then they can easily make it.

This was my list of things needing fixing:

  • Front and rear brakes
  • The clutch and clutch basket
  • Piston rings
  • Exhaust pipe
  • Bush for the gear change shaft
  • Replace points for electronic ignition

bits of my bike in a crate
Bits of my bike.

Amazingly the gears were all in good condition and the problems with them was due to the worn bush and somebody putting a gear in the gearbox the wrong way. The chain was also in very good condition and did not need to be changed, however the clutch inner basket was just about to self-explode and destroy everything in the gearbox. The points were no longer available so changing to electronic ignition removed the need to use points, and I have organised to put some side mirrors on the bike too because of the troubles that this causes on the highways without them.

Having Mr. Verdun look over the bike gave me a lot of confidence in knowing that the work would be done well. His experience and understanding of these bikes will ensure that my bike will last the distance when I start on some of my journeys. It will be great to have the bike working well too. The only things left after this work is the shock absorber and a speedometer. Then I will be ready for the road.

the remains of my bike
My bike disassembled for inspection.

Siambretta – The Reassembly

Well, it has been a while now and there has been no news about my Siambretta which went under the surgeon’s knife before the weekend. When I left it at the workshop the indication was that it may take more than a week to fix. There were several things that were dependant on other people to finish and these were the unknown lengths of time.

So being of an inquisitive nature, I wandered back down to Mr Verdun’s place to check up on my bike. When I arrived, there he was in the process of putting the gearbox cover back on the bike. He was happy to see me and told me about many of the repairs that he has already made to the thing, showing me some of his work and explaining other parts of it that I could not directly see.

Mr Verdun wroking on my Siambretta
Mr Verdun sorting through the parts while working on my Siambretta.

With the cylinder head back together and the gearbox, clutch and drive-train assembled, the bike is starting to look almost ready. This was something that Mr Verdun was very quick to dispel, explaining that he still needs to glue the brake pads onto the shoes, fit the electronic ignition, create some parts to get the choke working, and so on. It was quite an extensive list. After giving me this list, he then tells me that it is likely that the bike will be ready in two days. That means Wednesday.

From my conversations with Mr Verdun, he is still a very strong Siambretta enthusiast and loves to see the bikes in good working order. He has been excited by the work I have asked him to perform on my bike and informs me that it will be a completely different motorbike to the one I left with him only a few days before.

Another benefit that has come from asking him to do this work for me is that some parts which I had been told were previously unavailable, are now appearing. It seems that Mr Verdun is eager to see the bike returned to a good state too, so now some of the rare parts that are reserved for good customers are becoming available. I guess that means that I am one of his good customers then.

Fixing up the gearbox
With a box of parts at his side, Mr Verdun fixes on the gearbox cover.

Our Local Shop in Corrientes

Having been here for a long time, it was only recently that this shed situated right next to our property was opened as a shop. The guy that runs it, Ariel, actually started his Discipleship course with us back in July 2004. Now he works next to us and loves chatting with all an any who wander by.

It is not such a great building for a store, being just a big tin shed, but it has virtually everything that we could need and want. Chocolate, fizzy drinks, light bulbs, toilette paper, and of course all of the basic food items too. So this is now our local shop, only six paces outside our front gate.

local shop and owner
Ariel standing outside his shop.

Buying a Siambretta – Paperwork and More Paperwork

Today has been the third consecutive day of paperwork for both Sergio and I. Things were looking really good today, and I was sure that we would get very close to finishing everything. As we paced our way down the narrow sidewalks, avoiding other rushing people and searching for the shadows in this blistering hot day, I cheerfully chirped to Sergio that we have almost finished it all now. Without batting an eyelid nor even offering a glance my way, he shot back, “well we have less to do now than when we started.”


Sergio heading to the windows where we paid our licence plate fees.

After that we walked along in silence for a while, as I chewed over his words. Having been through many purchases in his life, Sergio was no stranger to all of the different forms and processes involved in the deal. Perhaps there was something that I was missing? I shot another glance at our list of paperwork to complete before we could finalize the transfer of the bike into Sergio’s name. It all seemed so simple and clear. We had done the tough parts and there were only two items left on our list. It was obvious that we were almost done.

It did not take long before we reached our destination, the Transport Office, where we would then complete the next item on our list. We had just been to the provincial government office and paid our fees on the number plates that were outstanding. A stamped paper in our hands proving our payment gave us access to this next step, and with the two offices being only five blocks apart it seemed like a good idea to walk here.

On entering the Transport Office we were greeted by a cool refreshing blast of air-conditioning, reminding us of just how hot it was outside. A brief enquiry at the main desk and we found our way through to the back of the building into an area of open planned office spaces. A group of people hovered around the one desk with people behind it coming and going and chatting quietly between themselves. This was our destination also.


The Transport Office and our destination desk at the very end.

Leaning over the desk and presenting our paper when it was our turn, we were not expecting what we heard next. The lady looked over the paper and exclaimed, “You have paid too much.” She checked the paper once again and told us that because the bike was built in 1962, we only had to pay the fees on the plates for the year 2000 and everything after that was free. Even though there were outstanding amounts listed, these would be wiped out when we finished the process.

But we could not finish the process just yet. The lady would not let us. Instead we were instructed to return to the government office and ask for them to refund us the difference. That was another five block walk back to where we had started, and time was starting to run short. The best part of this overpayment was that the fee dropped from around $136 pesos to only $34 pesos. A significant difference for anyone.


Finding our way through the mazes of government offices.

Normally we used Sergio’s car in our travels because it was generally easier and faster. It was also the only transport that we had. Now that we had the motorbike too, it had become an option, although today it was a necessity. Sergio’s car had broken down late yesterday and there was no other form of transport. So this time when we left the government office we climbed aboard my bike and rode over to the Transport Office.

We were now ready to strike off the next item on our list. The “Baja.” This removes all records of old bikes that do not have a complete paper-trail from the computers so it can be added again from the beginning. As Sergio handed over our amended receipt proving our payment of the licence plate fees, I expected that we would receive our “Baja” and be on our way. Instead, the lady reached into her folder and pulled out for us yet another list of items to complete.

The first item was yet another possible debt that had somehow managed to cling to the bike rather than the person. This was the unpaid traffic infractions associated with the bike. Now it is my prayer, desire, hope and wish that this old bike has no such a thing as an unpaid infraction upon it, but to find out we have to wait. It takes three working days to complete.


Waiting to be attended at the Office of Infractions and Fines.

Doing anything in Argentina takes longer than most other places that I know. So when we had to apply for a list of possible outstanding infractions, it did not surprise me that it used up the rest of our available time. On entering the building, through a small doorway in a huge steel grilled wall we were presented with two different branches of the pathway. From where we stood at the junction there were even more choices further along, so the only sure way of working out our destination was asking a guard. He cheerfully pointed us into the branch on the right.

When our turn arrived, we asked for the application and presented the necessary papers which had taken much of the week to get. Once they were satisfied with our status as the new owners of the motorbike we received a bill and told to come back when it was paid. So we headed back down the branch and out through the steel grated wall. Next door was the place that we paid this bill, and after waiting in line and receiving our stamp of payment on the bill, we were able to return once again into the depths of the neighboring building.

On presenting our proof of payment after yet another wait, we were registered for the application. It was done. Now we had to wait three days to receive the results. Monday it will be ready, but this is only the first of five items to complete for our “Baja.” The other items involve bouncing around the city from one place to the next to pick up a form in one place, have it filled out in another, and get it verified in yet another. Now I sympathize with Sergio and understand how he can say that we do not know if we are near the end or not, we can only say that we now have less to do than before.


Buying the official forms needed during our paperwork efforts.

It is obvious that I am very new to the paperwork requirements in Argentina. Until now it has been an amazing learning experience. Never did I expect that there would be so much time, money, and doors to move through before I could buy a simple motorbike. This much paperwork is not always required I am told. It is just that the motorbike I wanted to buy is so old that it has never been entered into the records database properly.

In working through all of these paperwork dilemmas and processes with Sergio, I have learned about yet another face of Argentina. My experience has taken me deeper into the workings and life of this country where I live. It has been a fascinating experience, fraught with mishaps and unexpected turns at every side, and still it continues.

Before this mammoth effort, I could not understand why so many bikes, cars and also houses here in Corrientes are sold without any paperwork. Now, even in the middle of the process, I can see why. Even the official government forms have to be purchased so you can continue the process.

Paperwork, paperwork, and even more paperwork. But we have less to do now than we did before.

Buying a Siambretta – Yet Another Visit

Today was an easy day. All I had to do was visit the Escribana and pick up some paperwork. Most of it seems to be signed now, although I am not holding my breath. The paperwork was all very important stuff. Things that I need to be legal on the roads here in Argentina. I now have two contracts of sale, one with the original owner on the paperwork, and the other with the seller, and an authorisation to drive Sergio’s bike. Now I am legal and if the police pull me over then I should be fine.

Of course there is always something yet to do, and with the bald front tire, no rear-vision mirrors, and a dodgy licence, there are still areas of concern to attend to. My plan is to get everything done as soon as possible so that I am truly legal here. It is proving to be a lot harder than I first expected. But after this visit, I am resting easier when I see a police blockade on the roads now.


The papers that I need to have on me at all times (Clockwise from left: Authorisation to drive, Certificate of sale from both parties, licence, passport, and Title Card of the motorbike).

Doing Business in South America

At the end of last year a survey came out about the processes and costs needed to start a business in over 150 countries. Run by the World Bank Group and the International Finance Corporation, their Doing Business website revealed that the best six places to start a business were:

1. New Zealand
2. Singapore
3. United States
4. Canada
5. Norway
6. Australia

Out of all of those countries, South America did not do so well:

25. Chile
77. Argentina
88. Paraguay
119. Brazil

In Argentina, it takes 32 days and 15 procedures to start a business at a cost rating of 13% of the average person’s gross annual income. In Brazil it you need to go through 17 procedures, wait 152 days, and pay 10% of your annual wage. Back home in Australia it only takes 2 days and 2 procedures and costs 1.9%.

There is a lot more information beyond this, although all business related. It includes things like taxes, licenses, enforcing contracts, trading across borders and many other areas. It certainly reveals a lot about the bureaucracy of each country.

This information is old news for those who follow it, but in looking over it once again, I can now start to appreciate why it is taking so long for me to sort out all of the paperwork with my newly acquired motorbike. After all, if it takes that much effort to do business here, then why should I expect less for changing owners on an old motorbike.

It’s Time I Told You – I’m Leaving!

That’s right. I am leaving YWAM Corrientes on the 18th of March. It will be close to two years (well, one year, eight months, and 18 days to be exact) when I leave. Gee, there are a lot of 8’s in there. Anyway, on this date I move onward to the next thing that God has for me here in Argentina.

During my school in Corrientes, after seeing a need in the area of communications, I made a one year commitment. Even though this commitment is completed, I have returned to Corrientes to teach those who will eventually replace me. We have five more weeks to achieve this.

So where do I go from here? First to Bolivia. While I was in Bolivia for the outreach part of my school last year, I made some verbal commitments to people that I would definitely return, therefore I am returning to fulfill these commitments to these people. My time in Bolivia will probably be for only a short while. Something around a month perhaps. It all depends on what happens at each place I return to.

Then after this I return to Argentina. The rest of the story is not written yet. Not even planned. My only goal is to continue on this journey with God until the end. It has been an adventure so far and does not look like ending soon.

Modest Housing

As I was wandering around town today, a couple of old houses caught my attention. Not all homes are like this, and there are even a number of mansions around the city too (see the last photo). The thing that attracted me to these houses more than the others was that they were sandwiched between more common styled housing, so they stood out when I saw them, with their old or worn features.

modest house
Avenue Artigas

city home
Avenue Belgrano

two older houses
Avenue Misiones

a mansion
Avenue Yrigoyen

Siambretta Parts – Needle in a Haystack

After a day’s break, I headed back into town to look for some very needed parts on my newly acquired bike. Three things stood out as needing repair soon:

  • The clutch, which was slipping and hard to use.
  • The rear shock absorber which was now just a bouncy spring.
  • The tyres which were completely bald.

Ideally, these sorts of things would be easy to find, but this is not the case for a Siambretta. After visiting my old friend and getting the udpates on where I should go to buy the parts I need, I headed off full of confidence. I had been told earlier than this that a tyre for my bike would cost only $40 pesos and my old friend told me what I could expect to pay for a new shock absorber. Based on these prices I could afford to replace them.

As I approached the shop, sitting quietly on the corner of a busy intersection, opposite the central post office, its narrow doors offered a glimpse into an old, dark, and rather small space. It did not look as grandeur as I have often encountered in spare parts places in Australia, but this was the place I had been told. So I pulled up my bike and strolled inside.

The pungent odor of grease stained wood filled the air of this old shop, an old fan on the wall pushed around the hot and sweaty smells of the group I had just joined as we all crushed into the tiny entrance space in a desperate yet vain attempt to escape the scorching heat of the sun. Being wise to the systems in Argentina, I had grabbed hold of a number ticket in the doorway and so I waited, ticket in hand, enjoying the new and yet familiar smells of this spare parts shop.

Behind the counters the place was packed full of parts. Stickers and fan belts hung from the ceiling while the counters themselves were stuffed full of every type of spare part known in this area. Huge wooden shelving sat behind the counter area and were filled with boxes labelled for what they contained, their bases covered in sprockets and other shiny parts. From what I could tell, there were spare parts here for virtually every motorbike on the roads in Corrientes if not Argentina. The best part was that there were lots of old parts here too. As I noticed this, my hopes rose high again.

When my number was called I started my inquiries. Tyres came nowhere near the $40 pesos I had been told. Instead they were starting from $67 pesos and heading upward from there. Shock absorbers simply do not exist any more, since the manufacturer of these had long since shut down. As the news of this hit me, my hopes took a head-down dive straight for the floor. I was so discouraged by the news of the first two items, that I never bothered asking about the clutch, but instead headed home.

On my way home, I looked around for other places where I could buy a tyre, perhaps with a price nearing the $40 pesos I had been told about. I stopped at any place that seemed likely to sell me that sort of tyre. Not a single person had one. The best I managed to find was some second hand tyres, already mostly used up, which hovered around the price I was looking for. So I returned without anything.

Aftrer heading off with such expectations that I would be able to find the parts I needed, I returned very deflated. Finding parts for my Siambretta is going to be a lot harder than I ever expected.

Isaac and Natalia Marry (Civil) in Corrientes

Isaac was in my Discipleship school in 2004, and he stayed on and worked with us in the mission here until December last year. During this time he fell in love with a young girl and today they both got married. This is the first part of the wedding for Argentina – the civil wedding. Later comes the church wedding which will be in Salta on the 18th of March.

Isaac and Natalia
Isaac (20) and Natalia (18) just after arriving at the civil office.

Isaac with extended family
Isaac with his extended family.

Isaac and Natalia with her family
Isaac and Natalia with her family.

During the vows
Natalia watching Isaac as he says, "I do" during the vows.

Family and friends watch on
Family and friends watch on as the lady directs the short ceremony.

Signing on the book
Signing their lives away to each other on the book of records.

Celebrating the newly weds
Everyone celebrating the newly-weds after the ceremony finishes.

Isaac and sister crying
It is a very emotional time for everybody.

Handing rice to a young girl
Handing out the rice to everyone, kids included.

Rice thrown over Isaac and Natalia
Being covered in rice as they leave the building.

As they leave the government building everyone has gathered to throw rice over them. Some of the little children do not know when it is enough and scoop it off the ground to throw it again and again until it becomes like a never ceasing rain. Eventually the novelty wears off and they stop throwing it.

From this point on the wedding has finished, and people start to trickle off after saying their farewells. Later on that night the family and some close friends gathered together for a meal to celebrate the newly-weds, and then everybody returns to Salta, Isaac’s home town.